Looks like I’m on a role with inverted movements this week!
Okay so this isn’t exactly a new watch, but given that I’ve still got a ton of unused photos from Baselworld 2013, I thought I’d share with you some of the pieces that I really liked but never got around to posting. So today I thought I’d show you the De Bethune DB28 Black Matte. And although I posted about its more complicated tourbillon equipped sister the DB28T not too long ago, I have a slight preference for the regular DB28.
To put things into context, I’ve been following De Bethune for quite some time now, but it wasn’t until they released the DBS back in 2005 that I fell head over heels for the 21st century manufacture. With its inverted movement and spherical moon phase indicator, not to mention its unusual but relatively subdued case design, the DBS laid the foundation for many of De Bethune’s later releases. You can see some shots (and a review in French) of a 2nd generation DBS here.
On the surface you might think you’re looking at the same watch, but you’d be wrong. The case of the DB28 is quite a departure from De Bethune’s former more classic offerings, consisting of a round central case fitted with “floating” lugs that adjust to the wearer’s wrist. The crown has been kept at the unusual but balancing 12 o’clock position. In this latest version, the case is made of sandblasted anthracite zirconium resulting in a matte black stealthy surface.
But if you’re looking at the DB28 your eyes are most likely fixed on the dial- or should I say the exposed inverted movement. Mounted on a mirror-polished black titanium central element are the brand’s signature futuristic “pomme” style hands, done in high-polished steel. The minutes can be read off the convex silver chapter ring, with the hour markers done in rounded and polished white metal elements. The exposed movement also reveals the twin self-regulating barrels, capable of delivering 6 days worth of power reserve.
At the 6 o’clock position you’ll find the brand’s spherical moon in an aperture of its own, done in polished palladium and black zirconium. The moon phase is accurate to one day’s deviation every 122 years.
One of the most remarkable features to behold is the balance wheel, which demonstrates just how far De Bethune have come as a haute horlogerie innovator. Holding several patents, the balance wheel is made of silicon and white gold, featuring a balance-spring with a flat terminal curve. At first sight you can’t even tell there’s a spring under the silicon disk.
But just because the movement is inverted doesn’t make the display back any less interesting. In fact, the watch’s power reserve indicator is located on the case back side of the movement. And you’ve got to love that black perlage finish contrasting against the Côte-de-Genève stripes of the front.
It’s no surprise that the original DB28 received the “Aiguille d’Or” award at the 2011 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie, and this matte black edition might be the most seductive variant yet; though of course such beauty and innovation comes at a hefty price tag in the $90-100k USD ballpark.
More information on www.debethune.ch
