A different take on a modern classic, here’s a look at the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme. Based on the brand’s signature Grande Seconde model, this variation features an added date complication as well as new dial and movement.
Let’s take a closer look at the dial. Afterall, a Jaquet Droz watch is pretty much all about the dial, and this one doesn’t disappoint in the least. Based on the brand’s signature Grande Seconde layout with two intersecting circles, the small hours and minutes are displayed on an off-centered dial with Roman numerals, with the seconds on a larger sub-dial with Arabic numerals.
What sets this particular Jaquet Droz apart is the grand feu enamel dial, done on two levels in a warm ivory tone. I’m not entirely sure how the dial is constructed, whether it’s a single element with a recessed portion or actually two components that are assembled together after several firings, but I would imagine that the rejection rates from either method are fairly high; making this enamel dial that much more exceptional.
The numerals, logo and other painted elements are fired onto the enamel dial rather than just printed on top. Besides producing a more aesthetically pleasing result with this petit feu method, it also means that the entire dial will retain its lustre and colors for centuries to come. It’s also worth mentioning that as enamel transforms during firing, each dial is essentially unique.
The date complication is placed on the same off-centered axis as the seconds hand, a clever way of integrated a supplementary complication without taking away from the balance and harmony of the Grande Seconde. While I’ve never been the biggest fan of pointer-hand date complications, the way it’s executed on the Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme is seriously one of the best I’ve ever seen. It’s not so “in your face”, as if appearing only when you’re looking for it. This is especially true on the red gold model, where there’s less contrast between the dial and hands. On the other hand (no pun intended), I like the play on temperature between the warm ivory dial and cool blued-steel hands on the white gold version.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme comes in the brand’s signature tapered round case with a curved sapphire glass in both the staple 43mm as well as a 39mm size. Although I own a 44mm Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde (mind you it’s in all-black ceramic which wears smaller than advertised), I found myself leaning more towards the 39mm version. There’s just something about the proportions that tick all the right boxes for me.
The movement is the automatic Jaquet Droz 2660Q2.P, which For the first time for Jqauet Droz features the use of high-tech materials in the form of a silicon balance spring and inversed horn on the pallet fork. The movement also features some new decoration, including radial côtes de Genève stripes and a skeleton rotor with a nice frosted finish and beveled angles. The power reserve is 68 hours when fully wound.
The watch comes on a stitch-less black alligator strap with a special tanning treatment, giving the leather a matte look and silky-soft feel. Both the 43mm and 39mm wear quite nicely on the wrist, though the latter feels far more classical. There’s no right size here, it all comes down to personal preference.
The Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Quantieme comes with a sticker price of $19,400 for the 39mm and $20,000 for the 43mm. Both sizes are available in either white gold or red gold cases, with no price difference between the two materials.
A special thank you to my fellow horophiles Watchonista for letting me get my hands on these tickers.
More information on www.jaquet-droz.com
